There is a harmony of nature and civilization in this landscape that brings
us back in time. In fact, many of the olive trees in this region date back to
Roman times, including one said to have been planted by the Etruscans. We find
people living much as their ancestors have for hundreds of years, retaining
traditions of the past, pageants and events that are essential to their modern-day
lives.
Walking here offers a splendid combination of exploring the history and culture
of the towns along with some of the most beautiful country and coastal walks
imaginable. The rolling hills are a patchwork of expansive vineyards and silvery
olive groves intermixed with forests of fir, oak and chestnut. The first half
of our Maremma exploration is inland, featuring Etruscan, Roman, and medieval
history while the second half unfolds on the beautiful Tuscan seaside.
We average five to twelve miles per day of walking on rolling terrain. Our
itinerary allows ample time to explore the region’s natural and cultural beauty.
Following is a typical itinerary. Please keep in mind that walks and sites may
vary due to the season or to weather conditions.
Arrival Day – Grosseto – Roselle Archeological sites; 4 miles, easy
We meet in downtown Grosseto, after lunch and ready to walk. Following a
brief transfer, we begin our first walk at the archeological site of Roselle.
Accompanied by a specialist guide, we explore the ruins of this once powerful
Etruscan city. Literary reference to Roselle dates back to the 7th-century B.C.
Such references indicate that it was once one of the most important cities in
ancient Etruria until it was conquered by the Romans around 300 B.C. Our guide
unfolds an understanding of the layout of the city as we explore the recently
restored city walls. From what is left of the Roman amphitheater, we get our
first views over the plains of the Maremma. Later in the afternoon, we arrive
at our home for the next four nights—an authentic Tuscan ranch overlooking the
picturesque village of Scansano. A warm welcome awaits us as our hosts prepare
dinner, featuring fresh game from the region, seasonal vegetables and hearty,
local wines, such as Procanico, Morellino di Scansano or the famous Jewish white
wine “Kasher.”
Antico Casale, Scansano
Magliano in Toscana – Salaioli; 8-12 miles, moderate
Following breakfast, we head to the Roman town of Magliano in Toscana where
our walk commences on top of the village’s ancient walls. Patchwork views of
the hills and valleys below grace our vista. Today, most of Magliano’s existing
architecture is medieval and we explore some of its riches before departing
on foot into the countryside. After a few hours we reach the tiny hamlet of
Salaioli, where we are treated to tastings of olive oil and local wine with
a bountiful farm lunch. Following our respite, some may choose to continue on
foot to our ranch while others may prefer to hop in the coach and either spend
time relaxing, horseback riding, or exploring the town of Scansano. We dine
this evening at a very special restaurant in the town of Montemerano.
Antico Casale, Scansano
Semproniano – Rocchette – Roccalbegna; 5-8-12 miles, moderate
We begin today’s journey in the 14th-century village of Semproniano. From
this charming town we can see distant views of our next two destinations: Rocchette
and Roccalbegna. Some may choose to walk from one village to the next and ride
in the coach for the other connection, while others may walk the entire three-town,
one-way adventure. Regardless, all are afforded breathtakingly beautiful views
of olive groves, fruit orchards, ancient farms and magnificent architecture.
Rocchette is situated on a steep cliff overlooking the Albegna River while Roccalbegna
is known for its most dominant feature—Il Sasso (a magnificent rock leaping
up from the center of town).
In the late afternoon we return to our Tuscan ranch where we can relax with
cocktails on the terrace. We enjoy dinner this evening in an intimate little
restaurant in the heart of Scansano.
Antico Casale, Scansano
Pitigliano – Sovana – Sorano; 4-7-11 miles, easy to moderate
This is one of the more unique days in any of the Country Walkers’ Italian
itineraries, for we begin our journey in the town of Pitigliano, once one of
the most densely Jewish-populated towns in Italy. After fleeing Rome in the
15th century, many Jewish families formed a community in this Maremma town which
became known as “Little Jerusalem.” While only three Jewish families remain
in Pitigliano today, the synagogue has been lovingly restored and the important
role the community had in the town’s history has been kept alive. We take time
to visit the synagogue and wander through the narrow streets of the former ghetto
before departing on foot to Sovana.
Our footpath follows ancient Etruscan routes as we twist and turn along wooded
trails dotted with ruins of Etruscan tombs. We cross small streams via Roman
bridges and finally reach the adorable, 7th-century village of Sovana. We take
time to explore the history and architecture of this small wonder where you
are free to have lunch on your own. Sorano is our final destination today. Some
may choose to walk the remaining 1-2 hours and others will prefer to ride in
the coach in order to spend more time exploring and shopping in Sorano. Rich
with Etruscan and medieval history and artifacts, Sorano is also a haven for
contemporary artisans. Their leather, olive wood and ceramic shops dot its narrow
alleyways. We enjoy a relaxing evening at our ranch where our hosts have prepared
a feast accompanied by local wines such as Procanico, Morellino di Scansano
or the famous Jewish white wine “Kasher.” Game such as wild boar and rabbit
may appeal to some while Tuscan beef or roasted chicken may suit others.
Antico Casale, Scansano
Transfer day; Capalbio – La Parrina; 5 miles, easy to moderate
Today, we transfer to our seaside paradise on the island of Monte Argentario.
En route, about a half hour-drive from Scansano, we begin our walk in the hilltop
village of Capalbio. Our route takes us past olive groves and vineyards, farmhouses
and castles in the distance. We arrive at the ancient agricultural estate, La
Parrina, the only single estate to boast its own DOC denomination for its wines.
Here, we are treated to a country lunch and tasting of regional specialties,
all produced on the farm. La Parrina dedicates its efforts to the production
of fruit, vegetables, flowers, olive oil, and traditional cheeses, as well as
their famous wines. Only a few miles inland from the sea, the farm is surrounded
by the ubiquitous and fragrant Mediterranean macchia (scrub brush). After our
leisurely visit at La Parrina, we drive a short distance to our next home on
Monte Argentario (connected to the mainland by a causeway). Our luxurious seaside
retreat is situated directly on the water, outside the town of Porto Ercole.
We have plenty of time in the evening before dinner in the hotel’s restaurant
for relaxing on a chaise lounge at the water’s edge or by the hotel’s beautiful
pool. Fresh seafood is on the menu tonight, in the dining room with views of
the sea below.
Hotel Torre di Cala Piccola, Porto San Stefano
Isola del Giglio: Giglio Castello – Le Canelle Beach; 6-8 miles, moderate
with a few challenging sections
After breakfast this morning, we drive to Porto Santo Stefano, where we
catch a ferry to the wonderful Isola del Giglio, a pearl in the Tuscan Archipelago.
The island is formed mainly of granite and, from the sea, seems mountainous.
Our exploration of the island starts in Giglio Castello, a medieval village
on top of the 405-meter high hill. From here, we walk along old mule tracks
toward Punta di Capel Rosso, the southernmost tip of the island. We diverge
on a trail that leads us down to the beautiful little beach of Le Canelle. Our
walk takes us through the breathtaking flora of the island,characterized by
wild lavender, broom, heather, and maritime pines. At the end of the walk, we
transfer by private van back to the port for our ferry home. Dinner this evening
is at our hotel.Hotel Torre di Cala Piccola, Porto San Stefano
Maremma Regional Park; 5-10 miles, easy to moderate
Following breakfast on the terrace, we head out for a full day of walking
in the Maremma Regional Park with our own naturalist guide. The park (sometimes
referred to as the Uccellina Park) is a band of land encompassing beach, pine
forest, marshes, canals, mountains and farmland. While the park is certainly
a nature lover’s paradise, it also boasts a series of Sienese watch towers connected
by footpaths, some of which we explore. The park’s vegetation includes the Mediterranean
macchia; juniper, heather, rock-rose, holm oak, dwarf fan palm, and centuries-old
olive groves. We may be fortunate enough to spot any number of fauna including
wild boar, roe deer, fox, porcupine, badger and fallow deer. Unique to this
area is the co-existence of wildlife with semi-domesticated species such as
the Maremman cattle and horses. Bird life includes cormorants, little egrets,
blue herons and wild ducks. No trip to the Maremma is complete without a glimpse
into the life of the Maremman buttero (cowboy). The butteri are to Maremma what
the cowboy was to the wild west and the gauchom was to Argentina. On this day
we enjoy a picnic lunch either among the dunes on the beach or sitting beside
one of the ancient watch towers. The afternoon is spent studying boar tracks,
bird watching or walking along the beach. Later, we return to our seaside retreat,
where we prepare for a festive farewell dinner in a local trattoria in the bustling
harbor of Porto Ercole.Hotel Torre di Cala Piccola, Porto San Stefano
Porto Ercole – Tombolo di Feniglia – Ansedonia; 3 miles, easy. Farewell in
Grosseto.
Following breakfast, we once again transfer to Orbetello to enjoy a final,
easy walk along the Orbetello Lagoon, which separates Monte Argentario from
the mainland. Together we walk the Tombolo di Feniglia, part of the Nature Reserve
of Orbetello. If we are fortunate, we may spot a black-winged stilt, pink flamingoes,
spoon bills, kingfisher or the minor albatross. After a farewell lunch, we transfer
to the Grosseto train station where you may pick up connections to your next
destination.
Itinerary Changes
Please bear in mind that this is a typical itinerary, and the actual walks
and sites may vary due to season, special events or weather. We reserve the
right to alter the itinerary since tour arrangements are made up to a year in
advance, and unforeseen circumstances that mandate change may arise. Itinerary
changes are made to improve the tour and your experience.
Journey Highlights
| |
Three
nights on the famous Island of Monte Argentario |
| |
Well-preserved
medieval villages; Etruscan and Roman artifacts; Maremma National Park |
| |
Tuscan
ranch cuisine (fresh game and barbecue), seafood, renowned wines |
Price: $3,798
Departure Dates:
May 15, 2003 June 12, 2003
September 4, 2003 September 18, 2003 October
9, 2003
